Monday, November 5, 2012

To Wittenberg for Reformation Day

Wednesday morning in Bratislava we got up early, enjoyed breakfast with Katie, Alice and Sue, then headed to the train station with Rachel, who is another American teacher we trained with, and she's also a pastoral intern at the international church there.  We had a relaxing ride with lots of interesting conversation as we shared our excitement about going to Wittenberg for Reformation Day and got to know Rachel better.  


On the train from Bratislava through Vienna, Prague, Leipzig, and Dresden

With Rachel - our splurge having lunch in the dining car. 

In the railway station in Leipzig

On our journey!  
When we arrived in Wittenberg, Arden met us at the train station with a big smile and hugs all around.  We were SOOOOO excited to be there!!  Arden gave us a walking historical tour of the town on the way to our rooms at Colleg Wittenberg, then he served us an amazing meal he had prepared in his flat.  It was a delightful evening!!  During dinner, Arden informed us that I would be reading scripture and Rachel & Tim would be helping to serve communion during the service in the morning.  WOW!!  Did I mention we were excited before?? Well, that bumped up the excitement level a few more notches, believe me!!  :-)  


Our evening walking tour included Lutherhaus,
where Martin Luther and his wife, Katherine, lived in Wittenberg.

The moon was nearly full and beautiful!  

Arden treated us to a local specialty --- Luther Beer!!  
We slept well in our beautiful rooms at Colleg Wittenberg (which is now a retreat center/education center - formerly a girls school) - a renovated facility close to the town centre - then had a delicious breakfast at Arden's again before walking to church.  


On the way to church --- I just loved this picture with the
red umbrellas on the outdoor tables, Tim carrying Arden's red robe,
and Rachel's red tights to complete the picture!!   :-)

That's our destination ahead --- the Castle Church.

There it is - where the Reformation all started nearly 500 years ago!

That's the Castle Church, where Martin Luther nailed his 95 Theses! 



The organ at the back of the sanctuary.  In preparation for the 500th anniversary
of the Reformation, Wittenberg is in the midst of a 10-year celebration leading to 2017.
Each year is designated to specially designate one of Luther's particular gifts, and this
year is recognizing his contributions to music.  How cool is that???  

Our first view inside the church

Where Martin Luther is buried

Martin Luther in bronze - near the front of the church

This little doorway looked intriguing!  


The seating on the sides near the altar.  

Before the service started, Arden was greeting people as they entered for the English service and asking where they were from.  The group sitting directly behind us said Iowa, which was such a "small-world" and unexpected thing!  But then it got better, when I asked the woman where in Iowa, and she said it was just a small town north of Waterloo.  So of course I asked what town......Readlyn!!!  She was amazed when I told her that was where Tim and I were married and that Lute is teaching at Wapsie Valley now!!  She is the church organist in another Lutheran church there, and of course she knows friends of ours.  Crazy!  

Arden preaching from the elaborate pulpit

Tim and Rachel waiting to begin communion

Serving communion - there was a nice crowd there,
but not as many as in the packed house at the German service!  

Yep - we were there to worship on Reformation Day!!  

And guess what the final hymn would be???  


Singing "A Mighty Fortress" in the Castle Church,
on Reformation Day, was a "goose-bump" experience!!

Arden in his red robe, under the Luther rose emblem doorway,
where we exited the church after the service.

Just outside the Castle Church after the service

Stained glass windows

The altar, from above in the balcony.

People starting to file in for the German service later.


Chandeliers were huge and magnificent.

I had been so curious the whole time, and I finally asked, "So where are the actual doors where Luther nailed those 95 Theses?"  And I felt really dumb when I was told that those wooden doors had burned many years ago!!  But this was the actual church where the actual doors once were located!!    :-)   


The once-wooden doors are now metal ones with
Luther's 95 Theses engraved on the panels.

At the actual church, at the actual site of the former door.   ;-)  

After church Rachel, Tim and I strolled around Wittenberg, seeing some sights and enjoying the enormous festival there in celebration of Reformation Day.  There were thousands of people there, many vendors of crafts and foods, and lots of Renaissance Fair atmosphere everywhere.  It was awesome!!  We sampled several absolutely delicious foods and enjoyed people watching as we wandered.  


Architectural beauty on the Wittenberg town square

The well / fountain on the square


Statue of Martin Luther in Wittenberg
I can't remember the name, but this was like a hot mulled red wine ---
perfect for a COLD day walking around Wittenberg!  (With the Castle Church
in the background --- nice job on the pic, Tim!!)

Some musicians parading through the streets of Wittenberg

This is the City Church also in Wittenberg,
where Luther actually gave most of his sermons

Interior of the City Church

Organ in the back of the City Church
Altar painting by Luther's contemporary, Lucas Cranach, with lots of history and symbolism

This is a small chapel just beside the City Church,  where we attended
a devotional / prayer service which Arden led in the afternoon.

Rachel and Tim and the small chapel

Some Renaissance madrigal singers entertained us before the service!

After the service, the madrigal singers performed a mini-concert
of chorales and hymns in the small chapel.



The back side of the small chapel, in the shadow of the massive City Church

Tim posing with "Martin Luther" at an outdoor café.    :-) 

Evidently when they were renovating the large statue of Martin Luther
on the Wittenberg town square a while back, they made hundreds of small
plastic replicas and set them up covering the square, then they sold them
as a fund-raiser.  Great idea!!  This one belongs to a colleague of Arden's at
the Colleg Wittenberg!!  There are red, green, blue, and black plastic
Martin Luthers all over town in restaurants, etc.  Too fun!!  

Arden had been busy all day long and hadn't gotten to eat since breakfast, so when his pastoral duties were finished, we had an early supper at 4:00 at a local German restaurant/pub.  Our meal was delicious, and we enjoyed more wonderful conversation, always learning more history from Arden!   That evening we attended a concert in the City Church - orchestra, choir and soloists - and it was fabulous!!  Super good acoustics and a talented group of local and professional performers.  What a wonderful way to end our Reformation Day in Wittenberg --- hearing J.S. Bach where Luther once preached!!  :-)



In the morning, looking out of Arden's window after breakfast -
the courtyard behind Colleg Wittenberg in stark contrast with....

...the adjacent property and courtyard which has not been refurbished!
This is so typical of the Europe we've seen - old and new side by side.  


The bakeries were selling "Reformation Buns" - yummy treats with
a cross and Luther's red rose emblem.  We brought them for breakfast.

I had to include both pictures of the 4 of us -- we didn't all
look our best in either shot on the camera's self-timer!!  

Like I said.     :-)

After breakfast on the day after Reformation Day, we toured
Lutherhaus, which is now an awesome museum.

Fountain in the courtyard

The doors to Luther's house


This is the actual pulpit where Martin Luther preached.
It has been removed from the City Church and placed in the Lutherhaus museum.
Luther had to kneel in this pulpit because of how small it was.  
Ancient hymnbook with "A Mighty Fortress"

I'll close today's blog with this display of a quote from Martin Luther.  
Our time in Wittenberg was incredibly meaningful, educational, and fun too!!  Thanks to Rachel for sharing the journey, and to Arden for being such a marvelous host!!   And thanks to God for our many blessings and safe journeys!!  

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